Organic Winemaking

Over the last few months many of our restaurant guests have been asking me about organic winemaking and what the wine industry is doing to help support a healthier environment. I have been diligently researching this subject, working very hard to drink…uh I mean taste, as many of these great wines as I could find.  I decided that I should write about it this week to pay homage to Sunday’s celebration of Earth Day. First some definitions are needed.

Integrated Pest Management: Introducing natural predators in the vineyards to kill off insects and unwanted bacteria that attack the vines.

Organically Grown Grapes: All chemicals are eliminated in grape growing. This includes synthetic fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides; promotes healthy soils and healthy waters around the winery.

Dry Farming: Planting cover crops in between vines to increase the soils ability to hold moisture and eliminates the need to irrigate as well as makes healthier, disease resistant soils.

Organic Wine: Same practice as organically grown grapes in addition to the lack of chemicals used in making the wine. This includes eliminating the use of sulfur dioxide (aka Sulfites) and is very rare. The use of sulfur dioxide helps to stabilize wine so that it doesn’t spoil.

Biodynamic Winemaking: Introduced by the teachings of Rudolf Steiner, incorporates the organic methods with the additional belief that the vineyard is its own ecosystem and that all aspects are important to create harmony and balance.  Biodynamic winemaking takes into consideration the well-nurtured soil, the animals that work in the vineyards, the sun that ripens the grapes etc.  It takes a holistic approach to the well being of the vineyards.

As the world becomes increasingly conscious of our need to care for our environment, more wineries are getting involved to support natural wine making. Some ways that we are seeing this include the decrease in the amount of fertilizers in the vineyards, the use of wild yeasts in winemaking, the elimination of electrical power in the winery, the increase in unfiltered wines, the decrease in the amount of sulfites added (some are needed to preserve the wine, but not in excess amounts) and the introduction of natural pest management.

Leading these movements are wineries like Frog’s Leap in Napa Valley, Chapoutier in Rhone, Domaine de La Romanee Conti in Burgundy, Nicolas Joly in Loire, Marcel Deiss in Alsace and Sinskey in Carneros.

The jury is still out on whether organic and biodynamic processes enhance the wine’s flavor and body.  But most of the time when extra care is taken to nurture and nourish a vineyard, the end result is healthier and longer lasting vines which make for deliciously drinking wines. In the spirit of Earth Day, go out and try a wine from a winery that takes environmental stewardship seriously.  Or stop by one of our restaurants this Sunday and sample the wines on our Earth Day menus.

Stay tuned for next week, I am bringing back the virtual blind tasting for a chance to win a bottle of wine the next time you dine with us!

Winter Wines

I love the warm weather. Give me sun, oceans and beaches any day and I am a happy girl.

But right now I am excited for the winter season. To tell you the truth, I've wanted it to be cold enough to start opening some of the earthy, full bodied red wines I have received for Christmas and pair them with some wild mushroom risotto (which I have been craving desperately). I called some friends and decided that last night was finally the night. There is something about full bodied reds that warm the soul on even the coldest winter nights. Fuller bodied wines do have a higher alcohol, so maybe that’s the warm, fuzzy feeling I'm going for...

We started off with a 2004 Deforville Nebbiolo from Northwest Italy in Piedmont. The wine had notes of candied cherry, powdery soil-chalk and potpourri, and was delicate with softer tannins, similar to Pinot Noir. In other words, the wine was delicious and helped to tie us over while I continually stirred the simmering risotto, slowly releasing its sweet fragrance.

We then moved on to a 1999 Monsanto, Il Poggio, Chianti Classico Riserva from Tuscany. This particular bottle was drinking phenomenally well; the flavors were smoky, earthy, and full of truffles, stewed tomatoes and wild mushrooms. Needless to say, it was the perfect wine to bring out the chanterelle and portobello flavors in our main course.

A few bottles of earthy reds, a bowl of delicious wild mushroom risotto, some excellent cheese from Murray's Cheese Shop (thanks Alexis), and our winter blues were gone. This is when I decided to tell them about my trip to Miami this coming weekend. After all, I like white wine too...

One Wine to Drink

While reflecting last week on my wine experiences from 2006, I got to thinking what makes a wine memorable and what type of wine would I drink if I had to have the same wine for the rest of my life?

I emailed some friends and colleagues and asked them the age old question (I'm sure you've heard this question in one form or another):

If you were stranded on a desert island and could only choose one type of wine to drink for the rest of your life what would it be and why?

I invited them to use their imagination and try to consider such factors as the island's food supply.  Here are some of my favorite responses.

James, witty sommelier: "The old Desert Island question...I want to lean towards St. Joseph or any wine from the Northern Rhone and Duck confit and maybe some foie gras butter with fresh baked brioche, just because if we’re never getting off this island, might as well live in sin. The other half has to go with the obvious - German Riesling. Probably Spatlese from the Mosel or anything from Helmut Hexhamer or Helmut Dönnhoff. What is with guys named Helmut from the Nahe region? As far as the food for the Riesling - tomato and jalapeno seeds. I’ll plant them, fish all day and have ceviche for the rest of my days...how does Riesling taste out of a coconut anyway?"

Greg, my favorite Walla Walla Winemaker: "Gramercy Cellars Walla Walla Syrah 2005 - because if I was stuck on an island, there wouldn’t be anyone to sell it!"

Peter, all around "good guy" and exceptional wine professional: "Tough... a few thoughts - 1996 Bollinger Grand Anee Rose Champagne. It could be the non-Rose too but has to be '96 although the '95 is singing these days as well. For me, it is the greatest champagne of my generation. Others in my office have said '82 Salon but I am a huge fan of the Bollinger style and the '96 vintage in particular. It's just the right balance for my palate of fruit, acid and yeast. It can be drunk young but has the stuffing to last forever just in case rescue is far off."

Melissa, entertaining wine educator: "Such a tough question...it's so hard to pick just one, but I think If I were given the choice I would drink Champagne. I have never quite figured out or have been able to express in words why I love Champagne so much. I feel more strongly about it than almost any other wine and drink it as often or more than any other. My attachment frighteningly borders on an emotional level as well. When it's good...really good...I get a little vachlemt (insert Saturday Night Live's Linda Richman voice here).  Plus with the salty food and air - what could be better?"

Rory, another witty Chicago Sommelier: "German Riesling (Kabinet-Spatelse), because it is lower alcohol and refreshing and my Island is very hot I and I am very thirsty."

Cindy, vice president of operations for a very cool culinary school: "Hands down it would be Krug MV.  Taking into account that I would be drinking a lot of it and it would be hot.  An unlimited supply of lobster and caviar would be necessary.  What about you?"

Well, that is a good question Cindy. I have so many favorites. Maybe it would be Trimbach "Clos St Hune" Riesling from Alsace because it is unique and is a monopoly (privately owned vineyard) and Riesling’s is so versatile with food. Although it could also be Raveneau Chablis "Les Clos" from Burgundy because the Chardonnay is rich and the wine bottle is heavy enough where it could be used as a weapon to fight off...wild animals.

Nah, my final answer would definitely be Groffier Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru 'Amoureuses' from Burgundy. It is silky, has ripe fruit, and yet is earthy with wild mushrooms and truffles. The premier cru name translates as "the lovers" and is so good.

Me. A desert island.  And Cru 'Amoureuses.' Now if I could only bring that one perfect person to share it with...

Happy New Year!

Happy New Year everyone!!

As I sit here on the first day of the New Year writing my blog (on time for once to make sure I keep one of my resolutions) I'd like to reflect on some of my most memorable wine experiences from 2006.

2006 was a great year and I have a lot to be thankful for. I’m healthy and happy and some of my most important goals were finally achieved last year.  So here goes:

Kicked off the New Year right by stealing a bottle Naia Verdejo from my roommate’s wine         cellar and drank it out of a tumbler in a bed and breakfast in Rhode Island while getting ready   for dinner.

On a chilly February night I ate white truffles and drank 1995 Produttori dei Barbaresco. The best part was that the wine actually had a stronger truffle taste than the truffles on the pasta. (Note: truffles taste better before the holidays during their peak season).

Worked an event called Masters of Food and Wine in Monterey where I drank my weight in Batard Montrachet and laughed hysterically with my good friend Joe from Vegas.

Not too long after that, I swore off wine while opening The James Hotel Chicago last Spring, opting instead for Dirty Martinis after work as a result of having to taste (and spit) about 100 wines per day to complete the wine list.

I can still see the salmon color of the Guy Larmandier Rose that my best buddy Eben and I drank at Cru to celebrate me turning 27 in June.

Soaking in the summer sun made me so happy especially when I sat in the pool with my friend Jenny drinking Leitz Dragonstone Riesling...the low alcohol % allowed for multiple bottles.

Discovered new and exciting wines in Greece this September including the most memorable wine of the year which was the 2003 barrel fermented Assyrtiko white from Sigales in Santorini.

I flew to Walla Walla, Washington where I shared my 1979 Fritz Haag, Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr (Thanks Rudi Wiest) with great winemakers and sommeliers and tasted the best New World Syrah, made by my mentor Greg Harrington off the tailgate of a pick up truck. (It really did taste like Cotie Rotie).

Studying in October through November meant blind tasting almost every day and yet with all my practice I kept mistaking the aromatic peach, banana and floral qualities of Viognier even though the Jeanne Marie from California was such a classic example.

Running around Paris drinking old, expensive Bordeaux only to discover that the best bottle of the evening was a $40 Jouget Chinon, which I enjoyed during a conversation with my new friends Gary and Bruce.

I was reminded of the wonderful flavors of Thanksgiving long after the holiday was over while drinking Betts and Scholl Grenache. When I asked the amazing winemaker, Richard Betts, where the sweet potato and marshmallow flavors were coming from he said "all of the sweet love and care that we put in there!" as well as the earthiness from the vineyard and the ripeness of the fruit.

Last night at midnight I drank 2002 Gimmonet Champagne and watched the ball drop with friends.

All of these bottles ranged from good to exceptional, mid-priced to expensive. But it’s not the cost or quality that makes these wines special to me. What makes them special are the people, places and experiences that are forever attached to them in my mind.

I hope I have many more great wine memories this year.  And I hope you do too.

Cheers and Happy 2007.

Happy Holidays!

Hey everyone - happy holidays!  I'm very happy to report that I have received hundreds of responses from my Wine Talk fans about the wine we blind tasted in my last blog. In fact, I received so many really great guesses (maybe it was the free bottle of wine) that I'll have to post another blind tasting very soon to give someone else the opportunity to win.

Some of your guesses included Riesling from Austria, Albarino from Spain, Verdicchio from Italy, Gruner Veltliner from the Wachau, Sauvignon Blanc from Australia, Sauvignon Blanc from California, and many others. I was very impressed with the breadth of knowledge that my readers displayed in their guesses.

The actual wine that I tasted was (drumroll please...) a 2005 Pheasant Grove, Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough New Zealand. I decided to taste this wine because I think it is a classic example of what New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc should taste like. If you recall, it had grapefruit and herbacious qualities, was unoaked, and had a medium body with great acidity and finish. I also tried to give a little hint by saying what the wine would pair with.

I am pleased to announce that the winner of this contest was Grace Hardy.  Not only did Grace provide the correct answer, she was also the first to respond! I have been in touch with her and she is going to enjoy her bottle sometime in the New Year. Congratulations and thank you to everyone who had fun with it.

If anyone has Holiday wine questions, don't hesitate to write me at WineBlog@brguestinc.com.  Wishing everyone a safe holiday season with your loved ones and a very happy New Year!

Master Sommelier Exam

Hey everyone!  Just got back from London two weeks ago and, after a great extended holiday weekend, I am finally getting settled back in at work.  In a previous a blog entry, I mentioned how I, along with three other sommeliers, received the John Unger Scholarship which enables 4 American candidates the great opportunity to sit for the Master Sommelier Exam in the UK.

The Court of Master Sommeliers is considered to be the leading organization for wine professionals and was created to elevate the standards and service of wine, spirits and other beverages in the restaurant industry. The exam consists of three parts: theory, practical and blind tasting. Candidates have three years to pass all three parts of the exam.

I am excited to share that I successfully passed the blind tasting portion of the exam! In this portion, the candidate has to identify 6 different wines, describing such characteristics as location of origin, the quality level and vintage.  And yes, it's as hard as it sounds!

But the exam was also one of the best experiences of my life. It was inspiring, motivating and empowering. As I continue to ride out my "exam high," I thought it would be fun for you to take a virtual blind tasting!  Below I have described the sight, smell and taste of a particular wine that I am currently sampling as I write this.  Email me at WineBlog@brguestinc.com if you think you know what it is. The first person with the correct guess will receive a complimentary bottle of this wine during their next B.R. Guest visit!*

Sight:
The wine has a low intensity of color. Light pale straw, hints of green around the rim, with light tears (a.k.a. legs or viscosity).

Smell:
The wine has powerful passionfruit and lemon/lime aromas, with a hint of jalapeno pepper spice. The wine doesn't have oak and is fresh and youthful.

Taste:
The wine has a lot of the same flavors in the mouth as on the nose, which now also include ripe grapefruit.  I am still getting that herbal quality that tastes like bell peppers. The wine is medium bodied, has medium alcohol, high acidity and is dry. It is very well balanced and has a long finish.  I could see this wine pairing nicely with sushi, salads or being consumed on its own with brunch or any other light meal.

I look forward to reading everyone's guesses!

*Due to Illinois state laws, we will only be able to offer the wine in New York or Las Vegas.  If the winner is from Chicago, he or she will receive complimentary dessert during their next visit.

Thanksgiving

With Thanksgiving just around the corner, I am sure most of you are busy preparing for the big feast (and the influx of relatives!).  Your grocery list is almost complete.  You've got the turkey, the stuffing, the cranberry sauce, the sweet potatoes.  But what about the wine?

Allow me to make some recommendations - along with some talking points for each (surely this will impress even Aunt Edna). Remember, turkey is a relatively easy food to pair with wine, but the accompaniments and side dishes (which definitely share the spotlight with the turkey) complicate the flavor matching.

My general recommendation is to find white wines that are off-dry and aromatic. I also recommend lighter, fruity, spicy reds. Another idea is to try something festive like Beaujolais Nouveau. It is the liquid equivalent of candied yams with marshmallows on top. Yum!

Here are some specific wines that are available in most fine wine stores.  Happy Thanksgiving!

1. Rose Champagne from France because it has the acidity to cut through sweet side dishes and is very festive for celebrating.

Examples:
Egly Ouriet, Rose, Brut NV or Laurent Perrier Brut Rose NV orVeuve Clicqout Brut Rose NV.

2. Riesling from Germany or the United States because the sweetness will compliment the relatively mild bird, and still has great acidity to cut through side dishes.

Examples:
Donnhoff Riesling Spatlese, Nahe 2004 or Gunderloch Riesling Spatlese, Rheinhessen 2004 or Eroica Riesling, Columbia Valley 2005

3. Tocai Fruilano or Arneis from Italy because of their crisp acidity and ripe fruit.

Examples:
Giacosa Arneis, Piedmont 2004 or Livio Felluga Tocai, Friuli 2004

4. Gewurztraminer or other whites from Alsace because their spiciness (coupled with their touch of sweetness) complement the side dishes and is rich enough to add flavor to the turkey.

Examples:
Lorentz Gewurztraminer, Alsace 2004 or Weinbach Riesling, Alsace 2003

If a red wine is preferred:

5. Pinot Noir from Burgundy, California or Oregon because the fruit is flavorful enough to enhance the turkey but light enough so it won't overpower.

Examples:
Bethel Heights Pinot Noir, Willamette 2004, Groffier Chambolle Musigny, Burgundy 2004 or Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara 2004

6. Gamay (Beaujolais) - Beaujolais Nouveau, which is released to be a marker of the harvest, also coincides with Thanksgiving.

Example:
Domaine Madone Beaujolais Nouveau, Le Perreon 2006

7. Zinfandel because it is very patriotic and goes well with Turkey with spicy side dishes or dressing.

Examples:
Ridge Zinfandel, Santa Cruz 2003 or Dashe Zinfandel, Dry Creek 2004

Studying!

I am in the midst of an exciting time in my life. In about 3 weeks, I will be taking the last series of exams for my Master Sommelier Diploma in London. For those of you that are unfamiliar, this exam is one of the highest achievements that a wine professional can obtain and personally it has been a goal of mine for the past 5 years. As you might imagine, I am busy studying, tasting and preparing for my trip.

Since I am in study mode, I have decided to list some of my favorite sources for wine information, wine books, and wine stores (NYC only). I hope you will check some of them out. Happy studying, reading and tasting!

Wine Stores
Smith and Vine in Brooklyn (www.smithandvine.com)
Astor Wines (www.astoruncorked.com)
Union Square Wines (www.wineaccess.com/store/unionsquarewines)

Websites
www.andreaimmer.com - Andrea Immer Robinson is an amazing teacher and speaker www.appellationamerica.com - Comprehensive grape varietal descriptions
www.champagnemagic.com - Great Champagne information
www.italianmade.com/wines/home.cfm - Everything you need to know about Italian Wine www.decanter.com - General wine site
www.bordeaux.com - All about wine from Bordeaux
www.jancisrobinson.com - Jancis is an extremely talented writer

Books
Wine and War, by Don and Petie Kladstrup
Adventures on the Wine Route, by Kermit Lynch
Cotes d'Or, by Clive Coates
A History of Wine in America, by Thomas Pinney
The Oxford Companion to Wine, by Jancis Robinson
The Complete Windows on the World Wine Course, by Kevin Zraly
Sothebys World Wine Encyclopedia, by Tom Stevenson
Red Wine with Fish, by David Rosengarten and Joshua Wesson
The Taste of Wine, by Emile Peynaud

Trip to Greece

"Greece is the Word"

Oh Greece. How could I not love you with your black sand beaches, whitewashed houses, mountainside monasteries, olive groves, and picturesque vineyards? Ever since my trip this month to Greece (hence the little hiatus in my blog entries), I have been dying to tell my readers how incredible the wines from Greece are.

We start our trip (myself and 4 other sommeliers) with a flight into Athens. After a leisurely lunch of whole roasted fish, tomato and feta salad, and grilled octopus we fly off to the island of Santorini.

Our first vineyard tour with Domaine Sigales winery is on the plain of Oia. We learn that the whole island was once covered with lush vineyards, but due to volcanic eruptions most of the vineyards disappeared and were never replanted. The vines on the winery we visit are shaped into baskets which are called "ampelies" to prevent the grapes from being bruised by the winds. Paris Sigales, winemaker and owner, gives us a tour of the land via pick-up truck and we gaze in awe at the gorgeous sunset on the blue Aegean Sea creating a romatic backdrop to the local grapes of Assyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani and Mavrotragano (which later becomes my nickname, long story). I just can't get enough of the 2003 barrel-fermented white blend of Assyrtiko and Athiri and even managed to smuggle a bottle with me in my already-overflowing suitcase. Shh!

Our journey then took us back to Athens where Ted Diamantis, our host and Greek wine expert, rents a car and drives us North to the mountains. En route to our next vineyard, we make the obligatory food stop and enjoy spit-roasted meats and our always satisfying Greek salad. Did I mention I love Greek food?

In the remote town of Amydeon we have the pleasure to meet Bordeaux-trained winemaker, Angelo Iatrdis, at the Alpha Estate. His passion for making wine from international and local grape varietals shows in the quality of the wine. The sauvignon blanc tastes like a cross between the best New Zealand and Loire Valley wines from the same grape. The popular red blend of Syrah, Merlot and Xinomavro is a crowd favorite amongst our group, proving how Angelo's work in the vineyards and innovative winemaking philosophy really makes a difference.

Our last visit to the ancient town of Nafplion in the Peloponnese region of the southern island is to visit Domaine Skouras. The owner, George Skouras, has been enthusiastically helping to promote Greece and her wines for the past 15 years and is one of the most charming winemakers I have ever met. His vineyards of the local grape Agiorghitiko (a.k.a St. George for those of you who really aren't interested in the local pronunciation) are perched on top of a beautiful hill in one of the most important Greek regions, Nemea. George's luxury-cuvee "Megas Oenos" is a blend of Cabernet and St. George and tasting the different wine vintages (dating back to the 1990's) will prove to even the most undiscerning palate that his wines develop and evolve with age. The Shouras Moschofilero pairs wonderfully with the local fresh seafood and after 5 bottles, it's hard not to chant "Mosco, Mosco" after every meal!

Olivia Newton-John, eat your heart out. Better yet, drink your heart out.
Greece - you're the one that I want.

Back to Basics

I apologize if this blog entry seems elementary to some of my more sophisticated readers, but I enjoy revisiting the basics of wine production from time to time. After all, understanding the fundamental concepts of how wine is made is the first step to making sense of the sometimes confusing world of wine. Fear not - understanding the basic formula for fermentation will certainly take some of the mystery out of wine, but it won't strip an ounce of magic or pleasure from it.

Let's start with this simple formula:

Sugar + Yeast = Alcohol

Run this formula through your head a few times because the more you grasp it, the easier it will be for you to choose a wine without the help of a sommelier.

Sugar is naturally found in almost every fruit. If you've ever bitten into a juicy grape, you'll know that grapes are no exception. Exactly how much sugar grapes will have depends on where the grapes are grown. (Here's a hint: warmer weather, more sugar.) When yeast is introduced to the sugars (either naturally from the grape skins or artificially), the yeast consumes the sugar and creates a favorable byproduct: alcohol.

What does this mean? Well, the more sugar the yeast consume, the more alcohol you will have in the finished product.

And since sweeter grapes generally grow in warmer climates:

Warm Climate = High Alcohol
Cool Climate = Low Alcohol

Alcohol is what gives wine body, so going one step further would mean that:

• Cool climates produce wine with low alcohol and therefore would be light bodied.
• Warm climates produce wines with medium alcohol and therefore would be medium bodied.
• Hot climates produce wine with high alcohol and therefore would be full bodied.

Now take a look at your bottle's wine label and think about its country of origin. If you ordered or purchased a bottle from Australia, then it is safe to say the wine will be full bodied with a higher alcohol content. Take this knowledge and experiment with different regions of the world. If you enjoy full bodied wines, I would be willing to bet that you would prefer a Nero D'Avola from Sicily (a warm climate) as supposed to a Nebbiolo from the northwest part of Italy (a cooler climate.)